Tag Archives: london collections: men

Carmelo Guastella Talks Men’s Hair

4 Aug
Carmelo Guastella

Carmelo Guastella

Men’s Hair Trends

Carmelo Guastella came to my attention early last year, although when I looked at his portfolio, I realised I had been admiring his work without knowing it was him for some time. If you follow men’s fashion, you are likely to have seen his work also. Carmelo has been featured in the majority of the leading men’s magazines since his move from Italy to London in 1999, including GQ, Esquire, L’Officiel Homme Brazil and Men’s Health to name just a few.

A hairstylist and authority of men’s luxury grooming, Carmelo is highly respected and rightly so. GQ named Carmelo as their Barber of Choice, well deserved recognition for a man who has forged a strong and impressive career. His career started quite young, as a nine year-old in Sicily as a barber’s apprentice and has continued with thirty years experience behind him. He has worked with some of the major players in the men’s luxury grooming industry including The Refinery, Gillettte, Unilver and Dolce & Gabbana. Carmelo was also appointed International Ambassador for Dove Men + Care Shave Range. His expertise in working with high profile individuals has not gone unnoticed with Robert Downey Jr requesting Carmelo to work with him in Avengers: Age of Ultron after being recommended by Sacha Baron Cohen, whom he had previously worked with for the Sweeney Todd movie in 2007 and styled for a portrait shoot a few years earlier with great David Bailey.

Carmelo predicts a growth in men’s interest in their image, some of which we have already seen and while somewhat slow, he predicts it will continue to steadily grow. This attention to self image in a social environment, alongside the more professional side in the workplace is great news. I personally think taking pride in your appearance is quite rewarding. Sharing his views on the latest in men’s hair trends through his observation of the most recent fashion events, as well as the wonderful streets of London which are full of inspiration, Carmelo references the trend in longer hair for guys, in particular length on top. Of course, he goes on to explain, “Your stylist needs to take into account a variety of factors, including age, hair type, profession, face and head shape, in order to achieve the perfect fit.”. Carmelo talks of three strong trends, The Rise of the Curls, The Versatile Fringe & Quiff and The George Clooney Haircut.

Rise of the Curls - Carmelo Guastella

Rise of the Curls – Carmelo Guastella

Curls at D Squared

The Rise of Curls at D Squared

The Rise of the Curls

Carmelo talks about the rise of the curls which I am excited about. Maybe it’s because I have straight hair and the opposite fascinates me. Whatever the reason, it’s great to hear Carmelo speak of this trend.

Carmelo explains, “More men are moving away from the short back and sides and are now embracing their curls or waves. You need a good hairdresser/barber who understands your features and your hair in order to create a great shape.

This is a perfect look for guys with wavy or curly hair, grow your hair to a medium length and let your hairdresser sculpture what suits best your face shape, this is all about the natural looking waves or curls minimal products. This type of hair will be popular moving away from the buzz cut and instead showing your healthy looking hair.”

Hair Trends - Carmelo Guastella

Hair Trends – Carmelo Guastella

Oliver Cheshire in Reiss

Oliver Cheshire: The Versatile Fringe & Quiff

Oliver Cheshire in Reiss at Richard James at London Collections Men SS2016

Oliver Cheshire: The Versatile Fringe & Quiff

The Versatile Fringe & Quiff

Carmelo has referenced Oliver Cheshire for this look, the versatile fringe and quiff. Seeing Oliver at the recent London Collections: Men last month, I agree with Carmelo on this, a great look and one men will easily relate to.

“I have combined the fringe and quiff in one category because if the haircut is done properly, it can be styled both up, down on the forehead or somewhere in between. There is no perfection like we have seen in the past with neat side parts or perfect quiffs but we will see more dishevelled and natural styles. The length of top is about 10-12cm and the sides 1.5-2cm the cut is achieved with clever cutting techniques to create soft texture and minimal usage of styling products which enhances the natural texture of the hair without giving a greasy look.”

George Clooney

The George Clooney Haircut

The George Clooney Haircut

I’m all for anything George Clooney, so this sparks my interest for obvious reasons. Carmelo references the George Clooney haircut as one of the important hair trends for men.

“I am seeing a rise in the George Clooney age category interested in improving or changing their hairstyles which they have had since they were kids. We know men are creatures of habits and this category is definitely looking for a change.

Still a long way to go as many men of this age still don’t care much about their hair opting for cheap haircuts which are noticeable, the George Clooney men age category will slowly break their habits opting for more stylish haircuts and learning how to style their hair.

Walking around London I notice guys with expensive cars, nice suits and a Rolex, but the haircut lets them down, you can notice the action and marks of the clippers the short sides are not blended well with the hair on top or the clipper has followed the head shape, the hairline is not natural all these are signs of a quick haircut.”

Carmelo Guastella at work

Carmelo Guastella at work

Exclusive Q&A with Carmelo for TMHS

I was fortunate to meet with Carmelo on my recent travels to London. We had a great chat over coffee and he showed me around the spectacular South Kensington Club which he talks about further below. Carmelo is such an interesting man, with a wealth of experience and a strong passion for what he does.

TMHS: When I met with you recently, you spoke of using scissors when you are cutting hair, rather than using clippers. Why is the use of scissors so important when cutting men’s hair?

CG: My philosophy is that the way a man chooses to style his hair is the ultimate expression of his personality. The reason of rarely relying on clippers, using scissors and comb instead is to enhance the client’s natural features, the haircut retains its style and shape for at least four to six weeks, and up to four months for longer styles. The scissor haircuts fall into place after washing, with minimal styling and products. Using scissors and comb is an art form.

Carmelo Guastella at work

Carmelo Guastella at work

TMHS: You are quite well groomed yourself. Who looks after cutting your hair?

CG: Thank you for the compliment. Being in the men’s grooming game does not mean I am a total vain individual, but I do look after myself, image is so important nowadays. I don’t have a one person that cuts my hair, I know exactly what I want and most of the time I cut my own hair, yes its possible and I may ask a colleague to fix the back of my head which I find a bit difficult myself.

TMHS: Tell me more of what you will be doing with the South Kensington Club. It is a beautiful place!

CG: I will be the South Kensington Club Barber making sure the Members look sharp, adopting my experience in Image consultant: Expert in men’s hairstyles, beard, stubble, wet shave and skin.

Carmelo Guastella at work

Carmelo Guastella at work

TMHS: Where can men go to have you look after their grooming? Best ways to contact you and also social media links.

CG:
carmelo@carmeloguastella.com
www.carmeloguastella.com
Twitter: @CGuastella1 @Best_Barbers

Words by Sarah Crawford, Editor, The Man Has Style

Follow The Man Has Style on Instagram: @themanhasstyle

For all editorial enquiries please contact: editorial@themanhasstyle.com

 

Burberry Strait-Laced

20 Jun
Burberry 'Strait-Laced' Spring Summer 2016

Burberry ‘Strait-Laced’ Spring Summer 2016

The Experience of Burberry

When a fashion show is not just about showing the clothes but in an overall experience, encompassing sight, sound, smell and taste, the memory can stay with you for a lifetime. Burberry have the ability to create an experience that you won’t forget. From the hand-delivered invitations, so beautiful in design and quality, to the email from Christopher Bailey a few hours before the show, every detail was thought of before, during and after the show, in what I like to refer to as “The Experience of Burberry”.

Live performance by British musician Rhodes, accompanied by a 24-piece orchestra conducted by Joe Duddell at the Burberry 'Strait-Laced' menswear Spring Summer 2016 show

Live performance by British musician Rhodes, accompanied by a 24-piece orchestra conducted by Joe Duddell at the Burberry ‘Strait-Laced’ menswear Spring Summer 2016 show

A live performance by British musician Rhodes, playing “Vienna”, “Breathe”, “Close Your Eyes” and “I Put A Spell On You”, accompanied by a 24-piece orchestra conducted by Joe Duddell, was exquisite, with arrangements created exclusively for the show. In previous seasons, I had covered the show from Australia and been moved to tears at the beauty from simply watching online. The live music would give me that extra something that resonated with my romantic mind. With this season my first Burberry show where I was able to be there in person, I was more than a little excited to be attending. When the performance is so powerful musically and you are combining it with an amazing setting alongside a beautiful collection, your experience is taken to a level you can’t even imagine.

Set in a custom-built venue in London’s Kensington Gardens, we were surrounded by wild English flowerbeds filled with seasonal buds such as foxgloves and hazel, making it feel like the most wonderful garden party. There was live music and a feeling of anticipation in the air for what we were all about to see. The sun was shining and the sky was blue. Everyone was dressed beautifully and everywhere you looked, you could see happiness and bright eyes. I wanted to live my life in this setting!

Burberry 'Strait-Laced' Spring Summer 2016

Look #6: A slim fit caban in a super-lightweight wool-silk blend. Made in Italy, the fabric is specially treated with a water-repellent coating. An understated design with clean welt pockets and button-tab cuffs.

We were ushered into the space where we were to see the show, with bird sounds filling the air and the plush carpet under foot, further adding to the luxurious feel. The much admired front row guests were arriving with Samuel L. Jackson, Chiwetel Ejiofor, Sam Claflin, John Boyega, Josh Whitehouse (who I picked as one of my best dressed for the day), Hu Bing, David Gandy, Masahiro Motoki, Tinie Tempah, Mario Testino and Lewis Hamilton, amongst many others there.

The music began and we were treated to a beautiful performance and showing of the collection. The colour palette was stunning. Black, navy, charcoal, pale grey, brown, stone and white were prominent with accents of turquoise, red and mustard. The cloth was luxurious and exquisite, with the cotton lace a highlight across the collection. English wool/mohair tailoring cloth, wool/silk tailoring cloth, fine cotton tailoring cloth, Burberry gabardine, double-faced cashmere and knitted cashmere were shown in different looks.

A new tailored slim fit designed, called The Chelsea, was introduced in trench coats and suiting. Lace shirts, double-faced cashmere topcoats, cashmere knitted joggers, lightweight down jackets, and light wool/silk trench coats were filling my vision, and my mind was delighted. Combined with the beautiful colour palette, I at times felt overwhelmed by what I was seeing.

I’ve been working almost daily with eyewear over the past year and I thought the square tortoiseshell sunglasses were a wonderful preview of the eyewear collection for Spring Summer 2016. The ochre tortoiseshell flush acetate front and uniform thick temples looked magical with black lenses, with the traditional double pin hinges visible on the front and temples and a polished metallic Burberry logo on the temples. The strong look worked well with the more feminine feel of the lace. The balance was just right. Another wonderful detail featured were the bug tie pins. How I loved these!

The graphic print silk wool trench coat from the Burberry 'Strait-Laced' Spring Summer 2016 collection is one of my favourite pieces.

The graphic print silk wool trench coat from the Burberry ‘Strait-Laced’ Spring Summer 2016 collection is one of my favourite pieces.

One of my favourite pieces from the collection is the graphic print trench coat. I love this! What a wonderful trench coat. The artwork is hand-painted in the Burberry studio and silk-screen printed onto the crisp and lightweight silk-wool blend fabric. Crafted in Italy, the design is cut for a streamlined fit. The flow of the fabric was simply beautiful as the model walked and at the turn the trench coat almost went into slow motion, as if to emphasise the perfection of the design, as it flared out at the hem. Combined with the lace detail underneath, it is a standout. This overall look is a delight, I had goosebumps when I saw it.

Burberry 'Strait-Laced' Spring Summer 2016

Burberry ‘Strait-Laced’ Spring Summer 2016

Burberry 'Strait-Laced' Spring Summer 2016

Burberry ‘Strait-Laced’ Spring Summer 2016

Burberry 'Strait-Laced' Spring Summer 2016

Burberry ‘Strait-Laced’ Spring Summer 2016 features ‘The Barrow’ in patent leather. A sartorial document bag in high-shine patent leather. Crafted in Italy, the clean-lined design features a hand painted stripe. Structured top handles and detachable webbed shoulder strap in contrast fabrications add to the appeal.

Burberry 'Strait-Laced' Spring Summer 2016

Burberry ‘Strait-Laced’ Spring Summer 2016

Burberry 'Strait-Laced' Spring Summer 2016

Burberry ‘Strait-Laced’ Spring Summer 2016

Burberry 'Strait-Laced' Spring Summer 2016

Burberry ‘The Barrow’ in patent leather. A sartorial document bag in high-shine patent leather. Crafted in Italy, the clean-lined design features a hand painted stripe. Structured top handles and detachable webbed shoulder strap in contrast fabrications add to the appeal.

The show finishing was not the end of the experience. We were served summer cocktails and champagne from Thomas’s – Burberry’s new all-day café within its Regent Street flagship – whilst British musicians Keston Cobblers Club, played live on the lawn. It really was a delight! Everyone was talking of how wonderful the show was and the beautiful afternoon we were having.

If you are like me, you see something you like and want it as soon as you can. For those who cannot wait and want looks from the runway now, you can pre-order selected coats and accessories until 22 June and will receive them two months earlier than everyone else. The items can be personalised with a metal nameplate which makes each piece even more special. If you are looking for the sunglasses, they will be available from February 2016 globally. If only I could get my hands on one of those exquisite bug tie pins before then!

Keep an eye on The Man Has Style on Instagram as more photos are to follow from the afternoon. In the meantime, make sure you watch the full show (Burberry Spring Summer 2016 ‘Strait-Laced’).

‘The Experience of Burberry’ was spectacular. Thank you Burberry for inviting me to share this. It was a pleasure.

Words by Sarah Crawford, Editor, The Man Has Style

Follow The Man Has Style on Instagram: @themanhasstyle

For all editorial enquiries please contact: editorial@themanhasstyle.com

 

Kingsman

16 Jan
Kingsman MR PORTER menswear presentation Savile Row London Collections Men 2015

The Kingsman presentation in Savile Row

Inspired by Savile Row Tradition

Inspired by the film Kingsman: The Secret Service, MR PORTER.COM has joined with Matthew Vaughn to create a new menswear label, Kingsman.  It’s a beautiful, luxurious menswear collection of 60 pieces, all bespoke and featured throughout the film. The creative team included Ms Arianne Phillips, the award-winning costume designer, who worked closely with MR PORTER.COM and Matthew Vaughn creating designs inspired by the wonderful Savile Row tradition so very much loved by The Man Has Style. The collection is made by some of the best in British production including Cutler and Gross eyewear; Drake’s ties and pocket squares; Corgi knitwear; George Cleverley footwear; Mackintosh outerwear; Swaine Adeney Brigg accessories and Turnbull & Asser shirting. And those Bremont watches, well what can I say? Absolutely beautiful.

I was thrilled to see the collection covers suiting, outerwear, shirting, knitwear and accessories, all made from the best of British cloth and from the best of British craftsmanship. Each piece on its own is a delight.

“We are pleased to have worked closely with Mr Matthew Vaughn and Ms Arianne Phillips to bring the look and sartorial styling of Kingsman: The Secret Service to life in a full collection. For decades iconic films have inspired designers and consumers and we felt that the gentlemanly style worn in the film will resonate well with our customers.” Mr Toby Bateman, Buying Director, MR PORTER.

Kingsman MR PORTER collection at the party presentation at Savile Row during London Collections Men

A selection from the Kingsman Collection

Kingsman MR PORTER collection at the party presentation at Savile Row during London Collections Men

Kingsman presentation at The Huntsman store in Savile Row

Kingsman MR PORTER collection at the party presentation at Savile Row during London Collections Men

Kingsman presentation at The Huntsman store in Savile Row

Kingsman MR PORTER collection at the party presentation at Savile Row during London Collections Men

Kingsman presentation at The Huntsman store in Savile Row

The Kingsman Presentation

This past week during London Collections: Men, MR PORTER.COM, hosted an evening presentation showing the 60-piece Kingsman collection over ten looks at The Huntsman shop in Savile Row. The setting was perfect for the collection, with scenes from the film having been taken at this location.

Watch the special sartorial trailer here (I love this!) – Kingsman: A New Brand for the Modern Gentleman

Kingsman is now available globally to shop exclusively on MR PORTER.COM – You can register your interest and sign up for Kingsman collection updates at: www.mrporter.com/kingsman

So, when do we all get to see Kingsman: The Secret Service? The film will be released globally on February 13, 2015. I know I am waiting in anticipation for this film and have watched the trailers many times. One of my favourite actors, Colin Firth is sure to bring all his talent to this role. I can’t wait to see it!

Kingsman MR PORTER collection party presentation at Savile Row during London Collections Men

The Kingsman presentation in Savile Row

Mr Toby Bateman, Buying Director at MR PORTER at the Kingsman presentation party

Mr Toby Bateman, Buying Director at MR PORTER at the Kingsman presentation

Darren Kennedy and David Gandy at the Kingsman MR PORTER menswear presentation at Savile Row London Collections Men 2015

Darren Kennedy and David Gandy at the presentation at Savile Row

Arianne Phillips,  Toby Bateman at the Kingsman presentation party

Those in attendance included Ms Arianne Phillips and Mr Toby Bateman

Kingsman MR PORTER collection party presentation at Savile Row during London Collections Men

The Kingsman presentation in Savile Row

Words by Sarah Crawford, Editor, The Man Has Style

Follow The Man Has Style on Instagram: @themanhasstyle

For all editorial enquiries please contact editorial@themanhasstyle.com

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Top 5 Male Models

23 Oct
David Gandy by Richard Stow for Shortlist

David Gandy by Richard Stow for Shortlist

Top 5 Male Models

Every time I post a story, I think of familiarities of past stories or those that I would like to do in the future. It’s like I am past, present and future all in one. If you have been following my stories and social media for the past few years, you would have noticed common themes throughout. When I have editorial presented in front of me, there are some definite common threads of what I am drawn to. As I was preparing a new post the other week, I thought about the male models that were my favourite faces. I went back through my posts, social media and all the things I have worked on and found my Top 5 male models, and what a great task that was! I tried to do a Top 10 but I kept arguing with myself (yes, it was interesting) over who should be in and who should be out, but I did make my Top 5. I hope you enjoy and if you would like to see more of a particular model on The Man Has Style, please leave me a comment below.

1. David Gandy

David Gandy for Massimo Dutti Equestrian in Top 10 Male Models on The Man Has Style

David Gandy by Hunter & Gatti for Massimo Dutti Equestrian

David Gandy for Massimo Dutti Equestrian in Top 10 Male Models on The Man Has Style

David Gandy by Hunter & Gatti for Massimo Dutti Equestrian

David Gandy by Melissa Uren for The Man Has Style

David Gandy by Melissa Uren for The Man Has Style at London Collections: Men

David Gandy not only looks the part, he is also a big supporter of men’s fashion and is actively involved in promoting this. His love of cars and dogs doesn’t go unnoticed either, along with his very down to earth attitude. It was a pleasure to have him pick up my story and accompanying photos by Melissa Uren for The Man Has Style at London Collections: Men earlier this year and share with his followers (read here).  I have featured him so many times on The Man Has Style over the past almost three years, I couldn’t go passed him being in first. With so many amazing campaigns he has featured in, his look is universal and appeals to so many.

2. Jon Kortajarena

Jon Kortajarena - Top 10 Male Models on The Man Has Style Menswear Blog

Jon Kortajarena

Jon Kortajarena Top 5 male models on The Man Has Style

Jon Kortajarena

Jon Kortajarena Top 5 male models on The Man Has Style

Jon Kortajarena

Jon Kortajarena. Goodness me, he was so close to number one, in fact, it took me so long to write this post as I kept going back and forth on who would come in but he was slightly edged out by Mr Gandy! Striking and absolutely beautiful, Jon Kortajarena can take your breathe away in photos. Not only in photos either! I was watching A Single Man again on the weekend, and his role as Carlos in that also makes you take notice. His work is wonderful and following him on social media, he has such a wonderful energy. Right up there with the best!

3. Sean O’Pry

Sean O'Pry by Alexei Hay for Hugo Boss Spring/Summer 2012 Campaign

Sean O’Pry by Alexei Hay for Hugo Boss Spring/Summer 2012 Campaign

Sean O'Pry by Renie Saliba for August Man Malaysia

Sean O’Pry by Renie Saliba for August Man Malaysia

Sean O'Pry by James Houston

Sean O’Pry by James Houston

How wonderful is Sean O’Pry? I say, absolutely wonderful! He has such a clean, healthy look and strong facial features with striking eyes. His editorial work is beautiful. I always feel he has a timeless appeal, one that could be from so many eras. Sean O’Pry really knows how to look good in photos!

4. Clément Chabernaud

Clèment Chabernaud by Hannes Hetta for Man About Town - Top 10 Male Models on The Man Has Style Menswear Blog

Parisian model Clément Chabernaud, shot by Andreas Larsson and styled by Hannes Hetta, for the Spring/Summer 2013 issue of Man About Town.

Clement Chabernaud in Lanvin

Clément Chabernaud in Lanvin

Clement Chabernaud for Gucci Fall 2014 on The Man Has Style

Clément Chabernaud for Gucci Fall 2014

Clément Chabernaud is exquisite in so many campaigns. His presence is captivating and he also looks spectacular in a suit. Needless to say, he has featured many times on The Man Has Style. His look is pure class and often with an air of mystery. I always think of Clément Chabernaud as belonging in a film as he was with De Fursac for Winter 2013 (see here).

5. Aiden Shaw

Aiden Shaw

Aiden Shaw

Aiden Shaw in Gucci - The Man Has Style Top 5 Male Model

Aiden Shaw – Gucci

Aiden Shaw in Ermenegildo Zegna - The Man Has Style Top 5 Male Model

Aiden Shaw in Emenegildo Zegna

What can I say? Aiden Shaw is a favourite of mine for sure. His look helps capture the quality of the clothing he wears. Silver flowing hair and a magnificent beard, his look is distinguished and strong. Alongside his wonderful modelling work, he is also a writer and musician.

Words by Sarah Crawford, Editor, The Man Has Style

Follow The Man Has Style on Instagram: @themanhasstyle

For all editorial enquiries please contact editorial@themanhasstyle.com

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